Why You Should Focus On Improving Audi G28
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How to Replace an audi car Key case G28 Engine Speed Sensor
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located on the outside of the transmission, audi tt Key Fob above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 through an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this information to control the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends a signal to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can start spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't show without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It's a bit tricky to test since there are different connector pins, and each has its own functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. If the sensor is functional, it should read approximately 1000 ohms. Check for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if there are problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating at full speed from the highway paytoll i had massive power loss like the engine is out of gas or injectors are not firing anymore. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine, there are no sparks, i place a tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stay shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start when the G28 is not plugged in and runs fine when it is plugged in but it still has the intermittent misfire issue at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. But i am afraid I might have missed something. Please let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender and both work on the 80,100,200, Audi Key Copy UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find an extra in a wrecking shop or parts store. It is simple to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines are equipped with an ECU that needs to know the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you have a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to the engine shutting down.
Some of the symptoms of a failing G28 sensor include an inaccurate rev counter for the gearbox and gears that shift faster than normal and/or a misfire when in gear. It is probable that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these symptoms. They are cheap and easy-to-find particularly when they're an Bosch model like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A faulty engine speed sensor could be a cause for a slew of issues in your car. It's a vital component of the key audi's transmission since it relays information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. If this sensor fails, it can disrupt the performance of the transmission as well as the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of the transmission, over the flywheel ring. It sends signals via an uncolored wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to control fuel, timig, audi tt key case and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these points. This is a typical component across the audi key copy 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
In this video, Charles the Humble Mechanic demonstrates how to replace the G28 engine speed sensor. The sensor is located on the outside of the transmission, audi tt Key Fob above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) which is then sent to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear the G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 through an uncolored wire. The ECU utilizes this information to control the amount of fuel and boost. It also sends a signal to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to correlate the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can start spark and injectors accordingly.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will display a P00160 code which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are out of sync, possibly indicating the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. The code won't show without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
It's a bit tricky to test since there are different connector pins, and each has its own functions. The best way to do it is to measure the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. If the sensor is functional, it should read approximately 1000 ohms. Check for signs of coolant, or oil in the connector bay if there are problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating at full speed from the highway paytoll i had massive power loss like the engine is out of gas or injectors are not firing anymore. Today, i pulled out the spark plugs, three were soaked with gazoline and the fourth was dry. When I start the engine, there are no sparks, i place a tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th stay shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID without success. The car is able to start when the G28 is not plugged in and runs fine when it is plugged in but it still has the intermittent misfire issue at higher RPM. The coolant sensor (G62), even if it is not plugged in, shows a temperature of -49c. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. But i am afraid I might have missed something. Please let me know should you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 can be activated by a signal by the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender and both work on the 80,100,200, Audi Key Copy UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find an extra in a wrecking shop or parts store. It is simple to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and determine the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They must be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines are equipped with an ECU that needs to know the speed and position of the crankshaft in order to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. It utilizes a Crank Position Sensor G4 and an Engine Speed Sensor G28 to achieve this. If you have a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will display codes that could lead to the engine shutting down.
Some of the symptoms of a failing G28 sensor include an inaccurate rev counter for the gearbox and gears that shift faster than normal and/or a misfire when in gear. It is probable that the sensor is failing and needs to be replaced if you encounter any of these symptoms. They are cheap and easy-to-find particularly when they're an Bosch model like ours. If you prefer, GM's version of this part would be an option.
5. Tachometer
A faulty engine speed sensor could be a cause for a slew of issues in your car. It's a vital component of the key audi's transmission since it relays information to the ECU about how the car's crankshaft is turning. If this sensor fails, it can disrupt the performance of the transmission as well as the rest of the car's components.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the edge of the transmission, over the flywheel ring. It sends signals via an uncolored wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then uses and processes this signal to control fuel, timig, audi tt key case and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection via pin T6a/1 (trace [79trace [79]) as well as between T6a/1, and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. You should detect the resistance to be around 1000 ohms between these points. This is a typical component across the audi key copy 80, 100, 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC through the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones could be available in wrecking yards.
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